1. Folding thickness of fabric Fabrics are divided into thicknesses, and clothing made from fabrics also has thicknesses; this thickness is expressed by the folding amount, so the folding amount needs to be considered when making patterns. The folding amount indicates the degree of folding thickness of the fabric, which is present in any garment. The folding amount is just different in size. The thicker the fabric, the greater the folding amount; the thinner the fabric, the smaller the folding amount. Example: The folding amount of denim jeans W: 1.2cm K: 0.6cm H: 1.2cm SB: 0.6
2. Shrinkage of fabrics
There are two types of clothing fabrics: natural fabrics and chemical synthetic fabrics
a: Natural fabrics: woven from natural fibers, mainly plants, such as cotton and linen, which have a large shrinkage rate, and animals, such as silk, wool, and leather, which have a small shrinkage rate.
b: Chemical synthetic fabrics: The main ones woven from chemical synthetic fibers include polyester, nylon, acrylic, chlorine fiber, chlorine fiber, etc., which do not shrink.
(The other kind of fabric is a mixture of natural and chemical materials, such as polyester and cotton, with low shrinkage)
Due to the characteristics of natural fabrics, natural fabrics shrink after washing. Cotton and linen fabrics shrink the most. In daily life, especially casual clothing, most pure cotton fabrics are used, so the shrinkage rate must be considered when producing paper patterns. .
No shrinkage: the size of a before washing is m and the size after washing is n, then a=m-n/m×100%
Since the fabric has two yarn directions: transverse and longitudinal, there are also two shrinkage rates:
a vertical = m vertical - n vertical / m vertical × 100%
a horizontal = m horizontal - n horizontal / m horizontal × 100%
Generally speaking, when making a paper pattern, the shrinkage rate of the fabric will be informed. If we don't know the shrinkage rate of this fabric, we can use the following two methods to calculate the shrinkage rate.
a: Don't consider the shrinkage rate first, directly make a paper pattern of the middle code to make a board, and then take it to the washing plant to wash (note that the washing method must be the same as the washing method of the bulk goods). After washing, measure the board again, compare it with the finished product specifications, subtract more, and add less. This way, the board is more accurate, but it takes too long to make the board.
b: Take a piece of fabric for bulk goods, sew the edges around, and use a pen to draw a square in the middle of the cloth with a side length of 40cm, two sides parallel to the fabric grain, and two sides perpendicular to the fabric grain 40x40cm, then wash it. The washing method is the same as the bulk goods. After washing, measure each side of the square, and it becomes 36x36cm data.
Reuse a=m-n/m×100%
a vertical 40-38/40x100%=8%
a horizontal=40-36/40x100%=10%
Therefore, the shrinkage rate of the fabric is: vertical: 5% horizontal: 10%.
However, considering the fixing effect of the seams, the shrinkage rate of clothing is actually slightly smaller, so it should be determined according to the specific situation.
The purpose of calculating a longitudinal and a transverse is to calculate the length with a longitudinal and the circumference with a transverse to calculate the shrinkage rate in order to calculate the data K before washing. From the shrinkage rate formula, it can be deduced that K=?
Furthermore, it can be deduced that: K longitudinal=e longitudinal/1-a longitudinal (to calculate the length of clothing)
K transverse=e transverse/1-a transverse (to calculate the circumference of clothing)
For the parts where the vertical and horizontal are connected, the shrinkage rate is taken as the average value, such as the fabric patterns of the waist and the waistband are perpendicular to each other.
Example: w: 66cm-68.6cm (shrinkage rate: vertical 3%/horizontal 4%) SL: 55.9-57.5cm.
Email: hello@utstesters.com
Direct: + 86 152 6060 5085
Tel: +86-596-7686689
Web: www.utstesters.com